Excursions to the African and Asian continents have been a persistent theme in 2009 spring shows: surely something to do with the urge to get as far away from the West’s problems as possible. Junya Watanabe and Ralph Lauren have both gone African throughout on their runway. Miuccia’s idea to “move away from all the fussy, couture-derived fashion that has become too heavy and overexploited,” must have really made us all remember that we’ll need truly visceral temptation to get us out shopping.
Regardless of intentions, this years spring shows seemed to be so much more authentic and riveting than previous seasons. With a few exceptions, such as the case of Gucci, designers really seemed to be taking a seeking inspiration in the cultural traditions that precede glamour, and western civilization.
In the case of Watanabe the beauty of it was the way he struck such an attractive balance between tribal references, and his own signatures. He used colorful “African” prints with motifs of apples, hearts, and leaves; he bunched, twisted, and draped them into tops, tunics, and dresses, steadily mixing them with faded denim, in the way that reflected how Western women would wear them; the ruffles of cotton prints bursting out of the hems of long skirts.
For Ralph Lauren, down came last season’s gold antlers and up went a Moroccan lamp. The show opened with a khaki camp shirt that looked like it had just come back from safari and beaded gold harem pants slung with two belts. Interspersed among the other silk-satin takes on that slouchy, relaxed.
In todays world of dramatically reconfigured priorities, Orientalist-modernist mix seemed to be the right answer. For many such as YSL and Dolce & Gabbana the choice was to play it both ways, combing Japanese-inflected austerity with uncompromising risk-taking shapes and hotly desirable accessories. The Oriental themes came out in the towering lacquered chignons, and soft, cocooning shapes inspired by kimono wrapping, and Japanese fishermen’s pants.
In these economically challenged times of conflict and insecurity, fashion leaders are using culture to bring us together reminding us once again, that it is indeed a small world.